Something that wouldn’t seem too difficult is remaining professional. It doesn’t sound difficult on the face of things, but sometimes it gets very hard to keep your level of professionalism up when others around you are acting anything but. You won’t always get the calls from businesses who have dealt with a professional photographer before. There will be times when someone will think it is entirely appropriate to see just how low you’ll go. If you’re in a situation where you haven’t had a decent paying assignment in weeks, you might just be tempted to lower your price to try to get the job. Don’t. It makes you look like a bargain basement shop and sets a precedent for more of the same kind of thing in the future. When someone asks you your price, give it to them.
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Decide on the type of depth, dimensions and details you want in your photo. Side lights give larger dimensions. Direct light hitting from front points out texture and depth. Lights from the rear help in reducing details. Place the lights according to your desire.
The most important consideration is the viewpoint. Before you even touch your camera you want to know what is it that you want to photograph and how you want to present it. You also want to give a little thought on the angles you might want to shoot from.
If your shot comes out too dark, increase your aperture (increase your f-stop number). And if your shot is too overexposed, decrease your aperture (lower your f-stop). Aperture will affect your depth of field also. Keep in mind, you don’t have to stick to ISO 100 or 200. Try all different mix match settings and see what works best for you. What i do is use bulb mode, which leaves the shutter open for as long as you want it to be open, in which you hit the shutter button for the second time to close the shutter. On a DSLR, this is usually on the mode dial, marked “B”. I usually set my ISO to 100 or 200, use a remote, hit the shutter button, and wait about ten seconds, then close the shutter. I then look at my shot, and figure out if my shot is too dark, too bright, etc.
You will also need a tripod for this, as having a camera handheld with long shutter speeds will make it near impossible to compose a good looking shot, without everything being blurry. I have done long exposures on rests before, such as a bridge overlook, and it worked well. You just have to make sure the camera has minimal movement during the exposure.
As you might expect, the direction of a hard light source is much more critical than that of a soft one. In fact, changing the angle between your subject and the light source can totally transform the way it looks. If your subject has a rich texture, that can totally disappear when the light is square on to it. The more oblique the angle, the deeper the texture will appear.